Description
FIREPLUG CDI CONVERSION MODULE
—WHAT IT DOES & WHY IT MATTERS—
The FIREPLUG CDI Conversion Module upgrades any single‑cylinder, points‑ignition engine into a modern high‑energy CDI ignition system—with no machining, no irreversible modifications, and no need to replace the OEM breaker points. If your engine has points and a battery, this module fits.
By using the existing breaker points as the trigger source, the module delivers a hotter, faster, and more consistent spark from 1 RPM to 12,000 RPM. This eliminates the weak, unstable spark that points systems suffer from at higher RPM and under load.
A FIREPLUG‑based CDI system produces immediate, noticeable improvements:
- Easier starting, even in cold conditions
- Stronger, smoother idle
- Quicker throttle response
- Reduced flooding / plug fouling
- More complete combustion and better overall performance
- Reliable spark energy across the entire RPM range
This CDI conversion module is ideal for older snowmobiles, ATVs, motorcycles, garden tractors, pulling-tractors, go‑karts and outboard motors— essentially upgrades the ignition on any 1‑cylinder machine, 2‑stroke or 4‑stroke, that uses older breaker-points ignition systems.
A small 12V battery is required. Engines equipped with a magneto‑powered lighting system can use their existing regulated 12V lighting output to maintain battery charge levels, so no additional charging components are needed.
COIL UPGRADE: Because of the additional energy generated, the existing ignition coil must be replaced with a CDI type ignition coil (purchased separately). Coil can be mounted anywhere that provides a grounded mount.
COIL type(s) / Suggested: Yamaha 01-143-16 or equivalent.
Commonly used on Yamaha GPX, SRX, Exciter to 1976
(Coil can be found on Ebay or web search for ~$35)
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NOTE: Installing this module requires some basic mechanical and electrical skills. Tasks include removing the flywheel, disconnecting the magneto source coil, and eliminating the condenser from the circuit (details provided below). The OEM breaker points remain in use—only specific wires are disconnected as part of the conversion. Please feel free to Contact us (link below) to discuss you application & please elaborate about your technical abilities!
ENGINE PREPARATION PROCEDURE: (reference photo’s below)
- Remove recoil / housing to access flywheel.
- Remove the flywheel.
- Locate the magneto source wire (upper coil in pictures) that junctions to the connection of the points/condenser.
- Simply de-solder or cut the wire from the magneto coil at the condenser junction (see note below).
- Insulate & isolate the loose hanging magneto coil wire from any contact by using heat-shrink tubing. Magneto coil will remain active, even though disconnected.
- Isolate wire by tucking away from any rotating components or points location so no interference with any moving parts.
- Original coil wire that connected to points terminal is retained & reused. This is also typically the kill-switch wire that ground points to stop engine.
- Reassemble flywheel / fan & recoil housing
Note: The condenser is not necessary for the module to function, so does not need to remain connected. It is suggested to also disconnect condenser from points junction as well when the magneto source coil is disconnected.
(Photos below of installation on 1974 Yamaha SM292 snowmobile engine)
INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS:
NOTE: If the installation does not already use a 12‑volt battery, one must be added for the module to operate.
12V BATTERY REQUIREMENTS: (suggestion)
UB1280 – 12 Volt 8Ah Capacity – F1 Terminal SLA / AGM REPLACEMENT BATTERY. These can be found relatively cheap (under $20) on Ebay search.
Note: For racing application with no lighting magneto available to charge the battery, a fully charged 8Ah battery will run the module for 8 hours of continuous use on a single charge.
MODULE WIRING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mount module to a suitable location to the frame or chassis. Do not mount directly to engine or any location that has severe vibration or excess heat.
- Connect the White module wire to the original breaker-points wire.
- Connect the Orange module wire to the new CDI coil.
- Ground the Black module wire to chassis & NEG (-) terminal on battery. Battery ground & frame/chassis must have a bonded common ground.
- Connect the Red module wire to the 12V battery POS (+) terminal.
- Connect the YELLOW wire to the engine’s regulated 12V lighting/charging output. On most snowmobiles this lighting lead is also yellow. When the YELLOW wire sees the 12‑volt pulses from the alternator, the module wakes from Sleep‑Mode, begins normal operation, and is able to charge and maintain the 12‑volt battery while the engine is running. When the engine stops and the pulses disappear, the module waits about one minute, then returns to Sleep‑Mode, preventing battery drain.
NOTES: If no YELLOW wire for Lighting/Charging output is available:
If the vehicle does not have a regulated 12‑volt alternator output, the YELLOW wire must be tied directly to the RED wire for 12‑volt power to wake the module. In this configuration the module receives no alternator pulses to Wake from Sleep‑Mode. Connecting the YELLOW wire to the RED power wire will over-ride the Sleep mode when 12V power is applied. A manual power switch must be used to shut off 12V power to the RED/YELLOW wires when the engine is not running to prevent battery drain.
Using a Key‑Switch or Toggle Switch: If you install a switch in‑line with the RED 12‑volt power wire, connect the YELLOW and RED wires together on the switched side. This ensures the YELLOW wire receives 12V when the switch is ON, allowing the module to wake and operate normally even without alternator pulses.
KILL-SWITCH :
The factory kill-switch/key-switch can be retained as originally wired and will disable the Module by shorting the points to Ground. This is the typical OEM configuration and no change is required to use the original kill/key switch with this module. Disconnecting the 12V power (RED) from the module also works as a kill-switch.
RESTORATION BACK TO ORIGINAL:
Restoring back to 100% OEM Magneto type ignition is as simple as removing the module & battery. Re-connect / solder the magneto source coil wire & condenser to the points junction. Replace the original points/condenser type spark-plug coil and your engine is 100% OEM stock ignition again.
TYPICAL SINGLE CYLINDER MAGNETO CONFIGURATION
CONNECTION OF FIREPLUG CDI CONVERSION MODULE
TO EXISTING MAGNETO SYSTEM
FIREPLUG CDI CONVERSION MODULE SPECIFICATIONS:
DESCRIPTION: Points & Condenser to CDI conversion Ignition Module
MANUFACTURE: HewTech Electronics LLC, China, MI
INDICATOR: Power ON, Red LED indicator flashes 2X on power-up
APPLICATIONS: Single (1) cylinder, 2 or 4 cycle internal combustion engines. Snowmobile, Motorcycles, ATV’s, Garden tractors
VOLTAGE: 9VDC to 16VDC
CURRENT: IDLE = 0.5 AMPS MAX RPM = 1.4 AMPS
SPARK OUTPUT: 82mJ @ 12.8VDC
COIL VOLTAGE: 310 Volt DC @ 200HZ
OPERATING RPM: 1-12,000 RPM
TEMPERATURE: -40C to +70C / -40*F to +158*F
IP ENCLOSURE RATING: IP69 (Protected against Dust ingress and High-pressure water spray from any direction)
WARRANTY: This module has a 1-year warranty against defects and workmanship. Any damage that may occur to the module from misuse or other issues is not covered by warranty, and will be evaluated for cost once returned for repair.
CONTACT US to discuss your application!
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Customer Testimonials:
“I can’t believe more people are not aware of this module”
“This sled was always hard starting and fouling plugs, so the kids never got to ride it because of the work involved. Now my daughter can start it herself!”
“I installed it on an old Kohler in a RUPP Trackster. I haven’t enjoyed driving this thing this much in 25 years!”
“My Elan with this module installed runs better then when it was new!”
“My Cushman Scooter buddies were amazed my scooter has a CD ignition”
