UPDATE October 2016: We now provide the OEM plastic connector with the Polaris TX/TXL/TXC FIREPLUG CDI. This makes the Fireplug CDI a true plug-n-play bolt down & connect replacement.
NOTE: Customer must re-use their OEM connector from OEM CDI box. Terminals will easily remove after flattening tab with needle-nose pliers & pull out. Follow diagram to insert FIREPLUG CDI terminals in proper location. (see OEM connector pic above)
1978 Polaris TX 250 / 340 / 440
1979 Polaris TX 250 / 340 / 440
1980 Polaris TX 340 / 440
1979 Polaris TXC 340
1980 Polaris TXC 340
1978 Polaris TXL Indy
1979 Polaris TXL Indy
1980 Polaris TXL Indy
1981 Polaris TXL Indy
1982 Polaris TXL Indy
1983 Polaris Indy Cross Country
Replaces: CU11-KOKUSAN-DENKI CDI’s
Released in 2010!
We took a second look at this CDI & made some significant improvements!
Timing Curve: ~31.5* @ 3000RPM ~ 16* @ 8000RPM.
COMPATIBLE 2-CYL STATOR VALUES:
78~Later TX / TXL & TXC STATOR VALUES:
BLACK to BROWN/WHITE: 64-OHMS
BROWN/WHITE to WHITE: 115-OHMS
BLACK to WHITE: 180-OHMS
(NOTE ALL VALUES ARE +/- 10%)
Compatible with factory mounting location & wiring harness once OEM connector body is installed.
DESIGN BACKGROUND: This has been a popular conversion for early-model (pre-78) TX 2-cyl’s because of the Advanced / Retard curve function available after 1978. The Early CDI’s were “STRAIGHT-CURVE”, or basically no ignition curve. The 78 & later stator / CDI combination provided the much needed timing curve which provided much better overall engine performance.
The FIREPLUG CDI is compatible with the factory stator harness.
PERFORMANCE: The FIREPLUG CDI is a High-Performance replacement CDI for your Polaris sled. The FIREPLUG CDI provides a higher energy output, that outperforms the stock CDI in reliability and performance. This translates to quicker starting, better throttle response, stronger pull & cleaner burning. The FIREPLUG CDI connects directly to your factory harness.
The FIREPLUG CDI is manufactured using the best industrial-grade components available. The FIREPLUG is not a high-volume / mass-produced imported device. Every CDI unit is manufactured at HewTech Electronics in Michigan, tested and shipped directly to you. It doesn’t exist until an order is received.
TIPS & SUGGESTIONS FOR PEAK PERFORMANCE USING THE FIREPLUG / POLARIS CDI IGNITION SYSTEM:
The Polaris ignition systems really have a great timing curve. To get those curves, components inside the CDI box & stator must work together. Be sure you have the correct stator & flywheel from 78 and later. Be sure the stator model matches flywheel. Backfiring out the carb or not taking throttle is usually an indication of the stator either being a pre-78 model, or incorrect stator value or flywheel not matching stator. Cracked magnets can also cause mis-firing.
Polaris ignitions are notorious for weak spark energy. We are willing to live with it because of the great timing curve, but it can catch you at higher RPM if you do not follow some guidelines. Typical low-energy issues will show up in missing at high-rpm missing, or not able to achieve the usual upper RPM you had with a standard TX CDI. Try this:
USE B8ES or B9ES SPARK-PLUGS: Do not use the BR-type resistor plugs. The resistor limits energy to the gap. Doing away with NGK resistor caps and replacing with direct-contact (non-resistor) caps / copper-core wires will also allow more energy to the plugs.
CLOSE THE PLUG GAPS: Ideally, you want as wide of gap as possible, without misfire. Typical for this ignition with race-fuel is 0.019″~0.020″ spark-plug gaps.
When extremely cold outside, try a blend of good grade of PREMIUM fuel (non ethanol, like SHELL ULTRA) with your race-fuel. Race-gas is very high octane. The higher the octane, the higher the flash-point. Lower temperatures also increase the flash-point. With the combination of race-fuel and cold temperatures, higher-compression engines requires additional energy to the plugs to fire the fuel. If the fuel takes longer to light up, this is just like retarding your ignition timing. Your engine will be hard starting in cold weather for this reason, since the cold / high-octane fuel is difficult to fire. A fuel-blend will keep things lighting up when they should & it’s like advancing the timing & letting the fuel fire under the cold conditions. Try it & check your jetting! Most engines will like the blend better if compression is not over 160 PSI.